Category: Travel

Porto was my first overseas destination since being diagnosed with coeliac disease in July 2023. A lot of the traditional local cuisine such as pasteis de nata, francesinhas, and bifanas are very gluten-heavy, but during the month I spent there, I had plenty of time to hunt out the best gluten free versions!

Gluten-free pastel de nata

The Portuguese custard tart known locally as pastel de nata is a must-have when in Portugal and you needn’t miss out on the action on your gluten-free diet. Gluten-free versions of these delightful little pastries can be found in the heart of Porto in Com Cuore. You can expect flaky pastry and gooey custard – just like the gluten version!

Gluten-free francesinha

The best gluten free francesinha I found was actually in Braga, a nearby city, 1 hour away from Porto in the gluten-free bakery Bonna Pasteleria. The francesinha is a sandwich filled with Portuguese ham, sausage, cheese, and steak, covered in more cheese, and soaked in a tomato-beer sauce, sometimes with a fried egg on top, because why not!? It’s a hearty meal to say the least, and a very satisfying one too. The gluten-free version I tried in Bonna Pasteleria did not disappoint, the gluten free bread didn’t disintegrate despite being immersed in sauce and if the francesinha itself wasn’t enough, the dish was accompanied with chips, which made for excellent dipping!

You can also find gluten-free versions on the francesinha back in Porto in Com Cuore, and a gluten-free and vegetarian francesinha in ClubLife. I didn’t try the francesinha at either of these places, however I have eaten at both and would recommend.

Gluten-free bifanas

The bifana is a pork sandwich. Now, whilst it sounds simple, it is the marinade which makes it special. For the gluten-free bifana it is back to gluten-free cafe, Com Cuore. The bifana here is served in a crusty gluten-free bread roll, filled with a ragu-like pork filling. Very tasty, albeit a little messy, so napkins at the ready for this one.

Non-traditional gluten-free food and drink

Gluten-free pizza

I was on the hunt for a good gluten free pizza during my stay and after a few disappointments I finally found the place – Mille Pinsa Trattoria Porto. This restaurant is located in central Porto and offers gluten-free pinsa romana. Pinsa romana is a slightly different base to a normal pizza, still with the doughy yet crispy texture, but also very light. The pizza here was so good I went 3 times during my month-long stay.

Gluten-free beer

Superbock is the local lager in Porto and you’ll see it everywhere. What you won’t see everywhere is the gluten-free version. I tried in numerous restaurants, cafes and supermarkets but I could only find it in Com Cuore and tapas restaurant Tapabento. When in Com Cuore I also bought a bottle to take home unopened as I wasn’t able to find gluten-free beer in any of the city-centre supermarkets.

Gluten-free tapas

I tried two tapas restaurants during my stay– Tapabento which is situated in São Bento train station, and Pisca, a small tapas restaurant with views of the sea in Foz do Douro – just a 10 minute drive from Porto centre. Both offer numerous gluten-free options. In Tapabentos I’d recommend the gluten-free bruchetta and tortilla de patata (potato omelette), and in Pisca I’d recommend the salmon cerviche, bacalhau a bras and padron peppers (the sangria is also amazing!).

Gluten-free fine dining

My favourite restaurant in Porto has to be Almeja. Almeja offers laid-back fine dining. The staff there are really knowledgeable about coeliac disease, and gluten-free is not a problem for them. I ate their twice, once from their ’10 momentos’ tasting menu and once from their main menu – both options offered a fantastic mix of gluten-free foods with lots of different twists and flavours.

Gluten-free supermarkets

I was surprised to see a decent amount of gluten-free options in supermarkets, with lots of products clearly marked as gluten free (‘Sem gluten’ in Portuguese). Supermarkets which offered decicated gluten-free options include Pingo Doce, Minipreço Express and Celerio. I found Pingo Doce to have the best range of options with gluten-free bread, gluten-free pasta and gluten-free pancake and tapioaca mix. Gluten-free foods tend to be spread out across the store so don’t expect to find everything all in one aisle.

Portuguese vocabulary

Lots of Portuguese people speak impeccable English, but I always try to learn some of the local language everywhere I go, so I’ve included some useful phrases below:

Overall verdict

Overall rating

In general, it felt like coeliac disease wasn’t particularly well-known in Porto, however some fully gluten-free cafes and restaurants are starting to change that. Porto is a fairly small city, so you’ll never be too far from gluten-free options. As always I’d recommend doing your research and contacting venues ahead of your visit where possible.

Coeliac friendly

A lot of Portuguese food is naturally gluten-free, so there were often plenty of gluten free options available, plus lots of restaurants which understood coeliac disease and the risks of cross-contamination. However, there were also plenty that didn’t. In some restaurants I had to explain what gluten was as the staff had never heard of it before (unsurprisingly, I chose not to eat here).

Safety

Unfortunately I found Porto a little tricky in some cafes and restaurants, with staff confirming that food is gluten-free but not fully appreciating the risk of cross-contamination. I have only included eateries where I had a safe experience.