This summer I enjoyed basking in the glorious sunshine on the Dalmatian coast in Dubrovnik. The ancient walled city offered history, beaches and beautiful sunsets.
During my time there I hunted out lots of delicious gluten-free options.
Wow. This place boasts a stunning view of the coastline and its islands. You will have to book in advance to eat here, and it was certainly worth the advance planning as the view of the sunset from the hilltop was perfect.
The restaurant staff were vary accommodating to my gluten and dairy free needs and I had a super succulent steak with an assortment of grilled vegetables. This was my favourite and most memorable meal of the trip – a steak with a view, what’s not to love!?
As always, an Italian restaurant often delivers of the gluten-free front and Nico’s was no exception. The chef was able to whip up a delicious gluten and dairy free seafood spaghetti.
Another Italian with plenty of gluten-free options. This time I opted for the prawn and courgette risotto. My only complaint was that I just wish there was more!
En route back to our apartment we stumbled across this roadside Mexican eatery where we indulged in corn tacos and frozen margeritas – a great pit stop before heading home.
Supermarkets
When arriving in Dubrovnik I headed to the local supermarkets, Studenac and Prima to check out their gluten-free produce. I wasn’t too hopeful, but I needn’t have been so pessimistic as they offered a number of gluten-free treats including plenty of Schar cereals, biscuits, crackers, local ham and crisps. Each were clearly labelled.
Boat trip
We booked a full day boat trip around the islands which included both lunch and drinks. I was a little nervous about this given the boat was only small, meaning a very small kitchen area. Luckily the staff were very understanding and I was able to tuck into freshly-caught fish, mash potatoes and a cabbage salad along with the other island hoppers – all naturally gluten and dairy free!
I holidayed in Dubrovnik for just a few days, so there were plenty of places I had on my list but didn’t get chance to try:
This is 100% gluten-free, and the only dedicated gluten-free eatery I came across when researching restaurants in Dubrovnik. Igra serves casual bites such as hummus, sausages, chips and breads.
Soul Kitchen is an international kitchen with gluten-free options. The photos of their food looked like they offer a good selection of healthy choices.
A mediterranean restaurant with an Asian twist offering gluten-free options. This place would be top of my list if I were to go back to Dubrovnik, the food looked fantastic.
Whilst I was waiting for my flight I had a wander around the terminal shops and restaurants and came across a few clearly labelled gluten-free options like this brownie.
Useful phrases
Most of the people I met in Dubrovnik spoke excellent English, but it is always handy to have some local lingo up your sleeve in case you need it.
English
Gluten-free
I am coeliac
Lactose-free
Croatian
Bez glutena
Ja sam celijakija
Bez laktose
Overall verdict
Overall rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 4 out of 5.
Being a fairly tourist-centric city, Dubrovnik catered to most allergies and intolerances and so I felt fairly comfortable eating out and felt confident my dietary requirements were understood.
Coeliac friendly
⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 4 out of 5.
The Croatian people I spoke to seemed familiar with coeliac disease and the requirement for gluten-free food and the avoidance of cross-contamination.
Safety
⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 4 out of 5.
I felt that my food was prepared safely in all of the places I ate.
This summer I spent a week in Norway. It is somewhere that has been on my bucket list for a long while, and it was certainly worth the wait.
On our visit we mainly focused on the fjords, staying in Bergen, Odda, and then Vik.
The scenery was magnificent, and we were surprised by how few people we saw at times, even in August. If you’re after rugged landscapes, beautiful scenery and a place to escape from the noise, I would 100% recommend Norway…just make sure to bring some waterproof clothes!
When is the best time to travel to Norway?
We went to Norway in August as we felt we’d have the best chance of some decent weather for hiking and enjoying the views. It rained! If you’re considering a holiday in Norway, be prepared for all weathers whatever the time of year. Whilst it rained most days of the week we were there, there were plenty of dry spells which gave us opportunity to get out and enjoy some hiking. The temperature was fairly mild, around 16 degrees celsius, but as you might expect in the great outdoors, the weather can be extremely changeable, so we made use of wooly hats, waterproofs and suncream in any given day.
When speaking to the locals, they said that the rain was slightly unusual for that time of year, however not completely out of the ordinary. Our hiking guide also recommended coming in the winter when you can hike in the snow.
Do I need to hire a car in Norway?
We decided to hire a car for our multi-stop trip. We flew from Manchester in the UK directly to Bergen, before hiring a car with Sixt at the airport. We opted for a 4×4 and we were very glad of it on some of the rural roads we were taking.
That said, if you want to just focus on visiting the main cites and towns in Norway, such as Bergen, Stavanger and Oslo, Norway can be done without a car. You can also get to the fjords on public transport from Bergen, however you wouldn’t have the opportunity to venture out too much unless you opt onto organised trips and tours.
What to pack for Norway
Whether you’re visiting Norway for adventure and want to get involved in the hiking, kayaking and climbing scene, or you simply want to take in the views. I’d recommend packing an assortment of clothing for all weathers – layers is certainly the way to go. Here’s what I packed:
Waterproof clothes – trousers, coat and cap
Quick dry sportswear – including tshirts, mid-layers and leggings
Hiking boots – even if you’re not planning on hiking, some hiking boots or good trainers will serve you well to explore a little. If you are planning on hiking, make sure you’ve worn your boots in before attempting a long hike (or have some blister plasters at the ready).
Backpack and waterproof backpack cover – a backpack is handy when going out for walks to pack with plenty of snacks, water and extra layers or waterproofs. The waterproof backpack cover came in extremely handy too – if you’re backpack isn’t waterproof, I’d recommend investing in one to avoid some very soggy sandwiches!
Norway 1-week itinerary
Day one: Fly UK to Bergen
We had an evening flight, getting into Bergen at 11:30pm so we opted to call it a night and rest at the hotel Scandic.
Day two: Drive Bergen > Odda
Rested and raring to go, we collected our hire car from the airport and headed to Odda for our first stop. The drive from Bergen to Odda took around 3 hours. Odda is a small town, but an ideal location if you are planning on hiking the Trolltunga. We stayed in an apartment overlooking the fjord, and took some time to relax before the Trolltunga hike the following day.
Day three: Trolltunga Hike
Bright and early at 07:30am we joined our hiking guide and group from Trolltunga Active. We met at the P2 car park before getting the shuttle to P3. I would strongly recommend getting the shuttle to P3. The climb up from P2 to P3 is steep, and is not a particularly beautiful hike as it is along the windy road up the mountain. We past many weary-looking hikers in the shuttle.
Thankfully we were blessed with beautiful sunshine all day on our Trolltunga hike, and didn’t get a spot of ran throughout the day. As a result we were rewarded with fantastic views and had a really pleasant day. The first part of the hike is uphill, but after this it is fairly flat and any uphill climbs are much shorter.
The hike took around 9 hours to complete with plenty of stops for food and photos. If you were hiking without a group and have fewer stops this could definitely be done quicker.
Day four: Drive Odda > Vik
After a well earned rest, we were up and back on the road, this time to the Sognefjord town of Vik i Sogn. The scenic drive took around 3 hours and once we arrived we enjoyed soaking up the unspoilt view of the fjord directly from our Airbnb.
Day five: Kvitenjuk hike
We were the only ones on the trail up to see the panoramic view of the fjord. It was an uphill climb, but worth the effort as we sat and enjoyed soaking up the view and silence at the summit. The Kvitenjuk hike was a much shorter hike following the Trolltunga, and took us around 1.5hours with a break at the top.
Day six: Bordalsgjelet Gorge and Voss
We travelled to Voss which is a lovely little town 1.5hours away from Vik i Sogn. Whilst we were travelling through a heavy downpour, the skies cleared and the sun came out for our arrival in Voss. We parked up and started the Bordalsgjelet Gorge hike, a short hike to a tucked away gorge amongst the local residents’ homes.
The great thing about hiking in Voss was that the town offers plenty of cafes and restaurants to refuel afterwards.
We ate at Vangen Cafe which offered a number of gluten-free options. I went for the vegetable curry with gluten free bread.
Day seven: Huldafossen Hike
On our last full day we went to another remote hike where we were the only people there. The Huldafossen hike was fairly flat which was a well-received treat after some of the uphill climbs on previous hikes. We saw the gorgeous waterfalls and glacier.
Day eight: Fly Bergen > UK
Before we travelled back home we had some time to explore Bergen. This was the most touristy area of all three stops, with lots of tourists coming from cruise ships. It is a lovely city and very walkable. We enjoyed a lunch and a wander around the shops before heading to the airport to travel home.
Eating gluten-free in Norway
The nature of our trip in the Fjords meant that we were self-catering most of the time, taking food to eat whilst out hiking and then cooking in our accommodation afterwards.
Scandic offered a separate section on the breakfast buffet for gluten-free and dairy free, offering gluten-free cookies, gluten-free bread and vegan raspberry energy balls which were delicious! This was in addition to a great selection of fruit.
I took a few gluten-free basics with me not knowing how easy it would be to find gluten-free food in the local supermarkets. I needn’t have done so as there were Extra supermarkets in both Odda and Vik, both of which offered lots of gluten-free foods including breads, pastas, biscuits, cakes and beers. They also had lots of lactose-free products too, with lots of lactose-free yoghurts and cheeses.
Gluten-free Bergen
Whilst I was mainly self-catering for this trip I did eat out in Bergen and Voss. I would recommend taking a look on the Norwegian Coeliac Society’s handy map of accredited restaurants to help guide your restaurant choices.
Bergen being a city meant that I had more gluten-free options than other towns and villages I visited. We opted for lunch at Olivia’s – an Italian restaurant which was well-reviewed by fellow coeliacs. Most dishes can be done gluten-free, and I went for a gluten-free margarita pizza with vegan cheese and a chilli dip.
Accredited by the Norweigan Coeliac Society, Peppe’s is a pizza chain offering eat-in and takeaway options. You’ll find various Pepe’s dotted across Norway.
Pizza Baken is another pizza chain accredited by the Norweigan Coeliac Society. Apparently frozen pizza is the most eaten meal in Norway, so you’d technically be living like a local by jumping on the pizza wagon.
I recently went on a mini-getaway to Northumberland to explore its coastline, castles and gluten-free fish and chips! There is plenty to see and do in Northumberland and it makes a great location for dog and family-friendly holidays, and when it comes to gluten-free food, Northumberland catered for coeliacs really well.
Where we stayed
We stayed in the lovely Newton Hall, a wedding venue and hotel offering gorgeous rooms with free-standing baths. They also have some modern garden rooms which offer a small kitchenette and many with a hot tub too. Newton Hall is handily located in High Newton-by-the-sea, just a few minutes from the beach and a 20 minute drive from some of the main sites including Bamburgh Castle.
The room was beautiful! Really spacious and a free-standing bath with a wonderful view of the beach.
Whilst Newton Hall doesn’t have its own restaurant, just a few minutes walk away you’ll find their sister property, The Joiner’s Arms where you can fill up on good pub grub! The best part is, The Joiner’s Arms is Coeliac UK accredited and many of the staff there have allergies themselves so they are extremely knowledgeable and understanding towards allergies and intolerances, and have catered for diners with multiple allergies. The staff put me at ease from the get-go and I didn’t have a bad meal there. In fact I had three meals there, including the best pub gluten-free fish and chips I’ve had.
During my stay I sampled the gluten-free steak burger with truffle fries, gluten-free fish and chips and sea bream with seasonal greens. For dessert I had the creme brûlée. The food there was great, and my gluten-eating partner also had some delicious meals.
Whilst on a trip to Lindisfarne, Holy Island, I wasn’t expecting coeliac-friendly establishments to be plentiful due to the size of the village, but The Crown and Anchor is a brilliant find! The owner here has multiple allergies so is really understanding and accommodating of gluten-free folk. As a result their fryer only contains gluten-free produce as standard, meaning fish and chips is gluten-free for all (and delicious I’m told). Put at ease that there wouldn’t be cross-contamination in the fryer, I opted for the breaded brie sandwich with chips. The menu offered plenty of gluten-free options along with vegan and dairy free options too, making it hard to choose.
I didn’t get chance to eat at The Copper Kettle in Bamburgh, but I heard great things about this cafe, offering a wide selection of gluten-free options, with sandwiches, jacket potatoes and cakes on the menu. The cafe is well-located, just a short walk from Bamburgh Castle.
Unfortunately Di Sopra in Alnwick was closed during our visit so I wasn’t able to sample their Italian menu, but from speaking with them on the phone they seemed very knowledgeable about coeliac disease and cross-contamination. They also had an extensive gluten-free menu including pastas, risottos, antipasti and much more.
Again, this one was closed during our mid-week visit, but I heard good things about the gelato here. Plus they offer dairy free ice cream and gluten-free cones apparently. Worth a visit when on Holy Island.
Another Alnmouth find offering gluten-free options and some positive reviews from other gluten-free foodies. A tearoom by day, and restaurant by night.
This quaint little tearoom is Coeliac UK approved, and whilst I couldn’t see any mention of gluten-free on their menu as I passed by, the reviews online suggest there are plenty of gluten-free options available.
Overall verdict
Overall rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 4 out of 5.
Northumberland had plenty of Coeliac UK accredited eateries and most places I came across offered gluten-free options, plus dairy-free too. Staff in venues were really accommodating and knowledgeable, putting me at ease right away.
Coeliac friendly
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
Given the number of Coeliac UK accredited options, I felt really comfortable and welcomed as a coeliac in all the restaurants I visited.
Safety
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
I didn’t have any bad experiences and was assured by restaurant staff that separate fryers and utensils are used in the kitchen, with all allergies and intolerances taken extremely seriously.
I was on the lookout for a gluten-free bottomless brunch recently, so I got in touch with plenty of restaurants across Leeds to see if they can offer gluten-free options and cater for coeliacs. Here is what I found…
Neighbourhood is a popular cocktail bar in Leeds offering a wide selection of yummy cocktails and Instagrammable decor. When I contacted Neighbourhood they told me that they had a few gluten-free options on the bottomless brunch menu and take all necessary measures to avoid cross-contamination in the kitchen. When I arrived the staff were knowledgeable about allergies and showed me the allergy matrix detailing my options. Gluten-free options included the poke bowl, burger with gluten-free bun, avocado on gluten-free toast, eggs benedict/royale with gluten-free bread, and the caesar salad without croutons.
I haven’t yet indulged in bottomless brunch at Mans Market, but when contacting them they assured me that they take every measure to avoid cross-contamination and have separate fryers. Gluten-free brunch options include gluten-free Prawn Crackers to start then either Salt & Pepper King Prawns, Tofu or Chicken Wings for Dim Sum. For the main course, choices include Beef/Chicken or Tofu with Blackbean or Sweet & Sour with the option of Steamed or Egg Fried Rice. All options sound delicious!
Whitehall were quick to respond to my enquiry and assure me that they have plenty of gluten-free brunch options and use completely separate utensils, chopping boards and fryers when preparing gluten-free meals. Gluten-free options included black truffle pasta, buttermilk fried chicken, steak and even creme brûlée for dessert.
Lost and Found gave me a super-detailed and reassuring response, detailing all of the extensive measures they take to avoid cross-contamination in the kitchen. Gluten-free options on the brunch menu were limited, with just the corn, butternut squash and chilli hash as an option, however there were plenty more options on the lunch menu.
Revolucion de Cuba told me that they cannot completely guarantee that cross-contamination would be avoided, but that they had plenty of gluten-free options on the menu including spicy fried chicken, albondigas (meatballs), spiced black bean queso and loaded nachos.
El Gato Negro is a tapas restaurant located in Leeds city centre. They offer a range of gluten-free tapas including tortilla, papayas bravas, beef short rib, and creme Catalan for dessert. The restaurant informed me that whilst they use separate utensils to prepare gluten-free options, due to the processes in the kitchen all dishes may contain traces of the 14 allergens.
On my first trip to London since being diagnosed with coeliac disease I was excited to explore of London’s plentiful options when it comes to gluten-free problem. The only problem was finding the time for them all in just one weekend. I’ve included the places I’ve visited plus some eateries that are very much on my list for next time.
My first gluten-free dumplings did not disappoint! Complete with gluten-free soy sauce, gluten-free tempura aubergine and a delicious dessert of assorted mochi, at no point of the meal did I feel I was missing out, far from it. Set in a cozy corner of Soho, the restaurant is decorated with quirky hand-decorated dumpling coasters from its many satisfied customers. I already can’t wait to return.
With most of ceviche’s menu being gluten-free, it felt a safe bet for a coeliac like myself. The menu is largely sharing plates, making it a great option to go with a group to try plenty of the menu. I ordered the aubergine tacu tacu, cassava fries, crispy squid jalea and Yana tuna ceviche.
Gluten-free crepe anyone?! Located in Brixton Village Market, Sarava offers a wide range of buckwheat crepes including ample selection of both sweet and savoury options. I opted for the picante.
I didn’t make it here, but Where the pacakes are offer a dairy-free, wheat-free and vegan batter option for pancakes, with plenty of sweet and savoury options on their all-day menu.
Another one on my gluten-free London bucket list, full of Middle Eastern dishes. Bubala have two restaurants, one in Soho and another in Spitalfields. Gluten-free options are clearly marked on the menu and they boast plenty of good reviews from fellow gluten-free diners.
Located just around the corner from Sarava in Brixton Village Market, Station 26 is fully gluten-free with plenty of rave reviews for brunch, lunch and dinner.
Located in Angel, I haven’t personally tried this gluten, nut and sesame-free restaurant yet but the food on their Instagram looks delicious – I’m talking gluten-free fried chicken, focaccia and chicken schnitzel.
I was spoilt for choice when it came to gluten-free bakeries, but with limited time and so many to try, I only had the time to visit just the one on this trip. I opted for Libby’s at Belsize Park, which offered plenty of gluten-free delights. I sampled the pan au chocolate, cookies, danish, sourdough bread and bagel (not all in one sitting – thankfully I was told the bread and bagel freeze well). They also offered plenty of other cakes and croissants, with some vegan options too.
On my list for my next visit, Cookies and Scream is a fully gluten-free AND vegan bakery located near Holloway Road tub station. Based on their website and Instagram it looks like they offer plenty of cookies, brownies, doughnuts, pies and shakes. I look forward to giving this a try.
Another fully gluten-free and vegan bakery located in Shoreditch, offering cakes, brownies, cookies and cookie dough. Their website also offers plenty of options to buy online for nationwide UK delivery.
Offering gluten-free, vegan and refined sugar-free delights near Charing Cross, I didn’t make it here, but Cream Dream’s Instagram suggests lots of yummy eclairs, dumplings and cakes.
Travelling from King’s Cross station made Leon a handy place to grab a gluten-free bite whilst on my travels. I tried the squash salad, waffle fries, and dahl. Perfect for a gluten-free bite on the go.
Scattered across the city, Honest Burgers has plenty of positive reviews from coeliacs, offering gluten-free burger buns.
There were a few other restaurants which I wanted to try but after contacting and explaining that I am coeliac they said that unfortunately they would not be able to accommodate. These included Banh Banh in Brixton, Oka and Imad’s Syrian Kitchen – a shame as they all looked delicious. It may be worth contacting yourself if you’re keen to try as restaurants may change their procedures.
I found Frankfurt a really tricky city to navigate on a gluten-free diet. After doing lots of research before my visit I found very few restaurants with good reviews from gluten-free diners and the coeliac community (those I sourced mainly came from Find Me Gluten Free). I emailed plenty of restaurants to see if they offered gluten-free options and to enquire if they were able to avoid cross-contamination in the kitchen. Unfortunately the answer I came up against on numerous occasions was a ‘no’ on both accounts.
If you’re travelling to Frankfurt and need to avoid gluten, I’d recommend doing some research beforehand, contacting restaurants ahead of time, and as always, travelling prepared with gluten-free snacks if possible. Whilst eating gluten-free was a challenge in Frankfurt, it certainly isn’t impossible. In this posts I’ve included some of the best gluten-free eateries I found.
Lua Cuisine is a gorgeous Vietnamese restaurant where the food just so happens to be gluten-free….win-win! The menu had plenty of options for starter, main and dessert and had lots of vegetarian and vegan options too. I went for crispy duck with passion fruit dressing, accompanied with pak choi and shiitake mushrooms.
Wow! Isabella Glutenfreie Patisserie had it all. A dedicated gluten-free bakery offering gluten-free macaroons, cakes, breads, brownies, biscuits, chocolate and so much more. They also offered plenty of vegan options too. I tried the gluten-free brownie, white chocolate cheesecake and blackberry mousse tart – all were incredible.
Update October 2024 – Unfortunately Vevay has closed since writing this post in 2023.
Vevay is a vegetarian restaurant offering plenty of clearly marked gluten-free and vegan options. I had the sweet potato fries with guacamole plus the mango rice noodle bowl with lots of colourful veggies. Super tasty and healthy food options. Their gluten-free desserts including the creme brûlée looked delicious but unfortunately I didn’t have room after my feast. I’d recommend booking a table here as it gets busy.
This one was well-recommended on Find My Gluten Free so I thought I’d give it a go. They are a small shopping centre food outlet offering various curry bowls. I was assured that all of the options (apart from the breads of course) were gluten-free. I went for the chicken tikka curry bowl pictured below.
So disappointed I didn’t make it here as it looks awesome. Glutenfreie Kaffeebar by Alex is a dedicated gluten-free cafe in Frankfurt and well recommended by coeliacs.
I shopped at a few Rewe stores across the city and each had a small gluten-free offering gluten-free breads, pastas, crackers, cookies, chocolate and waffles.
DM is a healthstore with a small health foods section where I found gluten-free wraps, pretzels, breads, biscuits and pastas. There were plenty of DMs dotted around the city so you’ll never be too far from one of these stores.
Gluten-free German Vocabulary
Whilst plenty of people spoke excellent English, I found it helpful to learn a few words and phrases, particularly when looking at the lists of ingredients on supermarket food items.
English
I am coeliac
I can’t eat gluten
Cross-contamination
Gluten-free
Wheat
Barley
Rye
German
Ich bin Zöliakie
Ich kann kein gluten essen
Kreuzkontamination
Glutenfrei
Weizen
Gerste
Roggen
Overall verdict
Overall rating
⭐⭐
Rating: 2 out of 5.
I’m giving Frankfurt two stars simply because during my time there I found few eateries which offered gluten-free options and where I felt confident that cross-contamination was avoided. Overall it didn’t seem commonplace to mark items as gluten-free on menus, and staff didn’t seem too aware of the importance of gluten-free foods.
Coeliac friendly
⭐⭐
Rating: 2 out of 5.
Coeliac disease didn’t seem widely understood and few restaurants I encountered were aware of or able to offer gluten-free options. When asking about cross-contamination, many said they did not take measures such as using separate fryers or chopping boards etc to avoid cross-contamination.
Safety
⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 4 out of 5.
The places where I did eat I felt were safe in offering gluten-free options and avoiding cross contamination. As always, I have only included places where I have had positive experiences.
The final stop on our trip exploring the north of Spain was Picos de Europa National Park. During our time here we stayed in the small village of Las Arenas which was close to the Ruta del Cares trail. This was the most rural part of our trip so I expected this to be the most challenging when it came to finding gluten-free options, but I was delighted by the amount of choice available.
Sidreria Calluenga
You’ll find plenty of sidrerias (cider houses) in the area, with natural cider being a popular local drink – and naturally gluten-free too! We dined at Sidreria Calluenga in Las Arenas on a few occasions since the food was so good and it was within walking distance from our accommodation. The menu has plenty of clearly marked gluten-free options and the staff assured me that food was prepared and cooked separately to avoid cross-contamination.
They offered a great selection of local dishes such as fabada (a hearty butter bean stew with bacon, chorizo and black pudding), alongside an array of meat, fish and vegetarian options as well. During our visits we sampled the fabada, filled onions, chorizo in cider, stuffed mushrooms, scrambled eggs with asparagus, and cheese flan. All the food was fresh, hearty and homemade – just what you need after a day’s hiking in the national park. I’d recommend booking in advance here since the restaurant was full every night.
Restaurante El Repelao
After a walk at Covodonga Lakes we went for a spot of lunch at Restaurante El Repelao . The restaurant was positively reviewed by coeliacs and as soon as I told the staff that I was coeliac they assured me that separate preparation areas and fryers etc were used for gluten-free foods. On a mission to indulge in the local cuisine as much as possible, I opted for another fabada – super filling comfort food, and well-earned after a hike around the Covodonga Lakes.
Other restaurants
Whilst we didn’t eat here, Sidreria Ribeles and La Plazuela both offered menus were clearly marked with gluten-free options and have positive reviews from other coeliacs. Both are in Las Arenas. Another well-reviewed restaurant which offers a completely gluten-free menu is Casa Niembro in the nearby village of Asiego. I would have loved to have eaten here as it has fantastic reviews, but time simply didn’t allow.
Gluten-free beers
Gluten-free beer seemed to be fairly commonplace in the area. In Las Arenas we found gluten-free beers – Mahou and Estrella Galicia at Cideres bakery and Chigre El Orbayu a cozy little bar with plenty of outdoor seating. If you aren’t in the mood for beer, the local natural cider is certainly worth a try.
Gluten-free supermarket options
Staying in Las Arenas we had a local supermarket called BM Shop. At the back of the store they had a range of gluten-free breads, pastas, cereal and biscuits. This was perfect to make a packed lunch when hiking in the area!
Overall verdict
Overall rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
I was spoilt for choice in Las Arenas and was able to indulge in lots of hearty gluten-free dishes. Having plenty of gluten-free options in the supermarket was really important for me on this part of our trip, since I was preparing packed lunches for days out hiking in the national park. For somewhere fairly rural, Las Arenas certainly exceeded expectations.
Coeliac friendly
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
Plenty of options at most restaurants, coeliac disease was well understood and I didn’t feel like I was missing out at any point.
Safety
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
Everywhere I went, staff assured me that they were using separate fryers, boards, utensils etc. I didn’t have any issues whilst eating out here.
On our road trip from Bilbao to Picos de Europa National Park, we made a pitstop at Santillana del Mar, a beautiful medieval town in Cantabria, Spain. Since the town is so small I wasn’t expecting too much by the way of gluten-free options, but Santillana del Mar had some fantastic hidden gems.
La Villa
La Villa has been receiving training and guidance from ACECAN, the Cantabrian coeliac association since 2018, and in 2019 they were nominated for best gluten-free restauarant in the ACECAN group. So it goes without saying that the staff are clued up when it comes to coeliac disease, and the whole menu is gluten-free.
We enjoyed a generous portion of homemade gluten-free croquettes, hake with potato écrasé and seaweed salad and the sirloin steak with foie and mushroom sauce.
Pasaje de los Nobles
Whilst we didn’t eat here (it was a tough choice between here and La Villa restaurant), I read lots of positive reviews from coeliacs and Pasaje de los Nobles, like La Villa, receives advice from local coeliac association, ACECAN. The restaurant offers a mix of gluten-free tapas and dessert options.
Confiteria Las Quintas
Whilst meandering around the cobbled streets of Santillana del Mar we came across Confiteria Las Quintas, a small local bakery which offers a mix of gluten and gluten-free items. Whilst unfortunately their bread and pastries contain gluten, they offered a mix of gluten-free biscuits and gluten-free artisan chocolate bars.
Overall verdict
Overall rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
It was great to visit such a small town with so many gluten-free options. With extensive gluten-free menus, plus the seal of approval from the local coeliac association ACECAN, Santillana del Mar felt like a safe haven for any coeliac visitor.
Coeliac friendly
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
With multiple restaurants with donning ACECAN and FACE Restauración (the federation of coeliac associations in Spain) badges of approval, it felt like the small town was very aware of coeliac disease and ready to accommodate.
Safety
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
Whilst I only ate the one meal in the town, I didn’t have any complaints with the safety of the food.
After spending a few days in San Sebastián I headed over to the city of Bilbao. Bilbao is much bigger than San Sebastián so my expectations of finding gluten-free eateries was high. In this post I’ll share the details of where I ate and what to expect in the Basque city.
Gluten-free tapas
We kicked off eating our way through Bilbao at Los Fueros, a Michelin Guide restaurant in the Casco Viejo (the old town) area of the city. We went at lunchtime and had a few tapas bites to eat, although bigger mains were available. I had the Russian salad and the tomato salad accompanied with toasted gluten-free bread (admittedly not the best gluten-free bread I’ve had in Spain) – both salads were delicious and there were plenty of other gluten-free options available.
Gluten-free bakery
Whilst I didn’t eat here, I stumbled across a gluten-free bakery called Magora Bakery in the famous La Ribera market. They mainly offered biscuits and cakes but they also offered bread too. They are both gluten-free and milk-free.
Dedicated gluten-free restaurants
Naked and Sated
Next up we went to Naked and Sated. They have a few restaurants across the country and are a dedicated gluten-free and health food restaurant. We ordered the poke bowl, the cheeseburger and a cheesecake for dessert. All of the food was good here, but not particular highlights of the trip for us. That said, it was relaxing to eat in a completely gluten-free restaurant and this place was perfectly en-route for us walking from the old town (Casco Viejo) to the Guggenheim.
Urregin
Our final meal in Bilbao was at Urregin and boy was it worth the wait. The entire menu is gluten-free and was happily devoured by myself and my gluten-eating husband, who also thoroughly enjoyed the gluten-free experience. Our only regret is only finding this on our last night in Bilbao.
We enjoyed the cow tail smoked with foie gras, hake in ali-oli, Idizabal cheesecake and chocolate brownie. I thoroughly recommend this place and would advise booking ahead. The restaurant is only very small and is also very popular, so booking in advance is a must.
Gluten-free Spanish vocabulary
Speaking Spanish was definitely useful on this trip as not everyone spoke English. Below are a few key phrases which you may find helpful:
English:
I am coeliac
I cannot eat gluten
Is there cross-contamination in the kitchen?
Does it contain gluten?
Without gluten
Wheat
Barley
Rye
Spanish:
Soy celiaco/a
No puedo comer gluten
¿Hay contaminación cruzada en la cocina?
¿Contiene gluten?
Sin gluten
Trigo
Cebada
Centeno
Overall verdict
Overall rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 3.5 out of 5.
Since I arrived in Bilbao after spending two days in San Sebastián, where eating gluten-free was super easy, I found Bilbao much more difficult to navigate on a gluten-free diet, and the options available were much more limited. That said, this can certainly be worked around with some planning ahead of your visit.
Coeliac friendly
⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 3.5 out of 5.
Coeliac disease and the importance of avoiding cross-contamination did seem to be well-understood, however I also found to be restaurant options and gluten-free options on the menu to be somewhat limited.
Safety
⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 4 out of 5.
I didn’t have any issues with any of the food I ate whilst in Bilbao and staff did seem to take cross-contamination seriously.
San Sebastián was my first stop on a road trip around the north of Spain. This was my first time visiting Spain since my coeliac diagnosis so I wasn’t sure how coeliac-friendly Spain would be. Thankfully, Spain was an absolute delight to visit as a coeliac, with most restaurants and cafes having a good understanding of the disease.
Here’s what I found…
Gluten-free Pintxos
Pintxos are a traditional Basque bar snack, a bit like tapas.
Before visiting San Sebastián I was keen to get involved in the local pintxos scene, but figured that with many pintxos being largely bread-based, I may have to give it a miss. How wrong I was! Pintxos bar and restaurant Gandarias offers tonnes of gluten-free pintxos options, including gluten-free croquettes. The staff are very knowledgeable about coeliac disease and assured me that the gluten-free pintxos are prepared separately and in separate fryers etc. The food was so good here (the gluten options too, my husband assured me), that we visited a few times during our time in San Sebastián.
Gluten-free ice cream
Who doesn’t love an ice cream in the sunshine!? Since being diagnosed as coeliac I’ve grown wary of eating ice cream due to cross-contamination, but I had a fantastic experience at Carlos Arribas. Not only can you get gluten-free ice cream here, but you can also get a gluten-free cone – and most importantly, both taste incredible! As soon as I mentioned I was coeliac when making my order the staff member serving me washed his hands, and served my ice cream with a clean ice cream scoop.
Gluten-free restaurants
During our stay we ate at Bodegón Alejandro which offers gorgeous local cuisine. The food was beautiful and staff were very helpful. Due to multiple staff serving our table I did have to keep reminding them that I was coeliac, but the food was delicious and I ate there without any problems. We ordered the twice acorn fed Iberian pork loin with mashed potatoes and the cod fillet confited with pil pil sauce and spider crab in Donostia style – both gluten-free.
Cod fillet confited with pil pil sauce and spider crab
Gluten-free supermarket
During our stay we visited the supermarket Supercor which offered plenty of Schar gluten-free products in a dedicated gluten-free section of the store, including cornflakes, bread, biscuits and chocolate. They also sold gluten-free Mahou beer.
Gluten-free Spanish vocabulary
Speaking Spanish was definitely useful on this trip as not everyone spoke English. Below are a few key phrases which you may find helpful:
English:
I am coeliac
I cannot eat gluten
Is there cross-contamination in the kitchen?
Does it contain gluten?
Without gluten
Wheat
Barley
Rye
Spanish:
Soy celiaco/a
No puedo comer gluten
¿Hay contaminación cruzada en la cocina?
¿Contiene gluten?
Sin gluten
Trigo
Cebada
Centeno
Overall verdict
Overall rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
I felt really safe and at ease when dining out in San Sebastián. Staff at all the restaurants I visited were really knowledgeable and demonstrated that they took coeliac disease seriously in the lengths they went to to avoid cross contamination – even at the ice cream shop. There were also plenty of delicious gluten-free options available at every turn, so I never felt like I was missing out.
Coeliac friendly
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
It was clear that coeliac disease was well-known and understood in San Sebastián – it certainly wasn’t their first rodeo!
Safety
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
I wasn’t unwell from any of the food I ate during my time here and staff were really good at avoiding cross-contaminations, using separate gloves, fryers, and utensils as needed.